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Who was Nanda Devi Unsoeld?
Nanda Devi Unsoeld was the daughter of Willi Unsoeld, a legendary American mountaineer who was part of the first team to summit Mount Everest via the West Ridge in 1963. She was named after Nanda Devi, the second highest mountain in India and the highest entirely within the country, which her father had seen and admired during his travels in 1949. She was born in 1954 and grew up in a family of adventurers, traveling around the world and learning about different cultures and languages. She was a free-spirited and charismatic young woman who loved nature, music, poetry, and people. She had a son named Jules and a partner named Annie Antepara, who were both part of her life until her death.
How did Nanda Devi Unsoeld die?
Nanda Devi Unsoeld died on September 24, 1976, at the age of 22, while attempting to climb the mountain that bore her name. She was part of the joint Indo-American Nanda Devi Expedition, which aimed to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the first ascent of the peak by an American-British team in 1936. The expedition was co-led by her father, Willi, and Ad Carter, a veteran climber who had been on the 1936 team. The expedition also included several experienced mountaineers from India and the US, as well as Nanda Devi’s younger brother, Krag.
The expedition faced many challenges and difficulties, such as bureaucratic delays, bad weather, logistical problems, and interpersonal conflicts. The team had planned to climb the unclimbed north face of Nanda Devi, but they were denied permission by the Indian authorities, who feared that they might stumble upon a secret CIA nuclear device that had been planted on the mountain in 1965 as part of a spy mission against China. The device had gone missing and was never recovered, posing a potential environmental and security threat. The team had to settle for the south ridge, which had been climbed before, but was still a formidable challenge.
The team reached the base camp at 15,000 feet in late August, and began their ascent of the south ridge. They established several camps along the way, and faced strong winds, snowstorms, avalanches, and crevasses. On September 15, they reached Camp IV at 22,300 feet, where they decided to wait for a weather window to make a final push for the summit. Nanda Devi was eager to reach the top of her namesake mountain, and was confident in her abilities. She had been climbing since she was a child, and had summited several peaks in the US and abroad, including Mount Rainier, Mount Hood, Mount Kenya, and Kilimanjaro. She was also in good physical shape, having trained for the expedition by running, swimming, and cycling.
However, Nanda Devi’s enthusiasm and optimism may have clouded her judgment and awareness of the dangers of high-altitude climbing. She had not acclimatized properly to the thin air, and had not taken any medication or oxygen to prevent or treat altitude sickness, a potentially fatal condition that affects the brain and the lungs. She also had not eaten or slept well, and had lost a lot of weight. She was suffering from symptoms such as headache, nausea, fatigue, and confusion, but she did not report them to anyone, or ask for help. She may have felt pressured to prove herself to her father, her teammates, and herself, or she may have simply underestimated the severity of her condition.
On September 22, the weather cleared, and the team decided to make a summit bid. Nanda Devi was among the first group of climbers to leave Camp IV, along with her father, Carter, and two Indian climbers, H.C. Sarin and N.D. Jayal. They climbed steadily up the ridge, but Nanda Devi soon began to lag behind. She was struggling to breathe, and her pace slowed down. She told her father that she was feeling cold and tired, and asked him to go ahead with the others. He reluctantly agreed, thinking that she would catch up with them later. He gave her a hug and a kiss, and told her to be careful. He did not know that it would be the last time he would see her alive.
Nanda Devi continued to climb alone, but she was getting weaker and weaker. She reached a point where the ridge narrowed to a knife-edge, with steep drops on both sides. She tried to cross it, but she slipped and fell, plunging about 300 feet down the north face of the mountain. She landed on a snow-covered ledge, where she lay unconscious and bleeding. She was spotted by another group of climbers, who were following behind her. They tried to reach her, but they could not. They shouted to her, but she did not respond. They realized that she was dying, and that there was nothing they could do to save her.
The news of Nanda Devi’s fall reached her father and the others, who were near the summit. They were shocked and heartbroken, but they decided to continue to the top, in honor of her memory. They reached the summit on September 23, and planted a flag and a plaque with Nanda Devi’s name on it. They then descended to Camp IV, where they mourned for their lost companion. They decided to leave her body on the mountain, as it was too difficult and dangerous to bring it down. They wrapped her in a sleeping bag and a tarpaulin, and placed some of her personal belongings next to her, such as her diary, her harmonica, and her necklace. They also said a prayer and sang a song for her. They then left her to rest in peace, on the mountain that she loved and that loved her back.
How did Nanda Devi Unsoeld’s death affect the mountaineering world?
Nanda Devi Unsoeld’s death was a tragic and shocking event that shook the mountaineering world. She was one of the first women to attempt to climb Nanda Devi, and one of the youngest to die on a Himalayan peak. She was also the daughter of a famous and respected climber, who had inspired many others to follow his footsteps. Her death raised questions about the ethics and risks of high-altitude climbing, especially for young and inexperienced climbers. It also highlighted the dangers of altitude sickness, and the need for proper acclimatization and medical care. Her death also sparked a debate about the fate of the CIA nuclear device, and the possible environmental and political consequences of its presence on the mountain.
Nanda Devi Unsoeld’s death also inspired many tributes and memorials, both in India and in the US. Her father wrote a book about her life and death, titled Nanda Devi: The Story of a Family’s Love Affair with a Mountain. He also established a scholarship fund in her name, to support young women who wanted to pursue higher education and outdoor adventures. He also continued to climb and teach, until his own death in 1979, in an avalanche on Mount Rainier. Her brother, Krag, also wrote a book about the expedition, titled Last Days on Nanda Devi. He also became a filmmaker and a conservationist, and dedicated his work to his sister’s legacy. Her partner, Annie, also wrote a book about their relationship, titled Nanda Devi: A Journey to the Last Sanctuary. She also became a psychotherapist and a spiritual teacher, and helped many people cope with grief and loss. Her son, Jules, grew up to be a musician and a traveler, and inherited his mother’s love for nature and adventure.
Nanda Devi Unsoeld’s death also left a lasting mark on the mountain that she died on. Her body remains on the ledge where she fell, frozen and preserved by the cold and dry climate. Her grave has become a pilgrimage site for many climbers and locals, who visit it to pay their respects and seek her blessings. Her spirit is believed to dwell on the mountain, and to protect and guide those who venture on its slopes. Her name is also engraved on the plaque that stands on the summit, along with the names of the other climbers who reached it. Her name is also immortalized in the history and folklore of the region, as the daughter of the mountain goddess, who returned to her mother’s arms.
