Joshua Ulmer, a talented pastry chef who worked for Enrique Olvera’s restaurant group, died suddenly on March 29, 2023, at the age of 25. His cause of death was not disclosed by his family or his employer. His passing shocked and saddened the culinary community in Los Angeles and beyond, who remembered him as a passionate, creative, and kind person.
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A Passion for Cooking and Dessert
Ulmer was born on July 19, 1997, on Long Island, New York. He developed a fascination with cooking at a young age, watching the Food Network after school and preparing meals for his family inspired by his grandmothers and the chefs he admired on TV. He also had a sweet tooth and loved bread, butter, and ice cream.
He pursued his culinary dream by studying at Johnson & Wales University, where he graduated with a degree in culinary arts. He then joined the pastry team of Cosme, a Michelin-starred Mexican restaurant in New York City, under Olvera’s Casamata hospitality group.
In 2020, he moved to Los Angeles to help open two new restaurants for Casamata: Damian and Ditroit. He became the head pastry chef of both venues, creating desserts that blended Latin-heritage ingredients with French technique.
A Signature Dish and a Fan Favorite
One of Ulmer’s most popular creations was the hibiscus meringue at Damian, a dessert that showcased his skill and flair. It consisted of a chewy, pastel-colored meringue that was halved and shattered to reveal a chantilly cream beneath, all dusted with dehydrated hibiscus imported from Oaxaca. The dish was a hit with diners and critics alike, who praised its texture, flavor, and presentation.
Ulmer also made other innovative and delicious desserts, such as pink peppercorn paletas dipped in raspberry hard shell, pink-tinted hibiscus conchas, fresh churros with chocolate sundaes, and more. He used seasonal and local ingredients whenever possible, and experimented with different combinations and techniques.
A Cherished Friend and Colleague
Ulmer was not only a talented pastry chef, but also a beloved friend and colleague to many. He was known for his warm personality, his sense of humor, his generosity, and his dedication to his craft. He worked long hours to perfect his desserts, but also found time to enjoy life and have fun.
He had a close relationship with his family, especially his parents John and Christine Ulmer, and his sister Victoria Ulmer. He also had many friends in the restaurant industry, who supported him and admired him. He received many tributes from chefs, restaurateurs, food writers, and fans on social media after his death.
His family said in a statement: “To know that he not only inspired our family, but also those that worked with him and ate with him, makes our family’s hearts so full.”
A Sudden Loss and a Lasting Legacy
Ulmer’s death was unexpected and tragic. He had a bright future ahead of him as a pastry chef, and he had already achieved so much in his short career. He left behind a legacy of delicious desserts that will be remembered by many.
His family asked for privacy during this difficult time. They also requested that donations be made in his name to the James Beard Foundation, an organization that supports chefs and culinary education.
Ulmer’s desserts will continue to be served at Damian and Ditroit for the time being, as a tribute to his work and memory. His colleagues said they will miss him dearly, but they will also honor him by carrying on his passion for pastry.
